Published 7/28/24 at 4:35 a.m.
By Andre' GW Hagestedt, Oregon Coast Beach Connection
(Brookings, Oregon) – Some 180 miles of beach, lush forest, savage cliffs and untouched scenery: Oregon's southern coastline is undomesticated compared to its northern half. Visitor density is far less and there can be an abrupt sense of being remote by just driving a few miles. (Above: Gold Beach and the Rogue River - ODOT)
Here's quick guide to all things south coast and what it entails.
It all starts just a tad south of Brookings, in what they called the Curry Coast, with Crissey Field State Recreation Site butting up against the California border. There's a whole bunch o' wetlands with hiking trails here, a lengthy stretch of beach, and often giant driftwood logs as far as the eye can see. Just north of there is McVay Rock State Recreation Site and its expanse of beach with large rocks everywhere.
Brookings. The first of the south Oregon coast towns. Its Chetco Point Park is the center of attention, with a lovely harbor and the engaging cliff-line beaches and intricate finds of Harris Beach State Park. Lots of the beaches within town aren't accessible: they're just cliffs with deep, dark rocks below.
See the south Oregon coast map.
After this you've entered the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor, without 15 miles of insane attractions. It runs all the way from near Lone Ranch Beach to near Crook Point, and it includes major coastal headliners like Cape Ferrelo, Whaleshead Beach, Indian Sands, China Creek, Natural Bridges, Secret Beach, and Arch Rock. Some of the wildest, most untamed scenery on the entire coast is here.
Natural Bridges photo courtesy Manuela Durson - see Manuela Durson Fine Arts
From there it's not far over Crook Point and into the Pistol River, Meyers Creek and Ariya's Beach areas. Cape Sebastian and its long stretch of darker sand beaches are right around the next corner. That includes the fab Kissing Rock.
Rocky Point area - courtesy CoastWatch
Gold Beach. The mighty Rogue River, dinosaurs and a stretch of sandy strands are the centerpiece here. There's the Mary D. Hume shipwreck in the harbor, and it's the only south coast town that indulges in its own glass float finding events. Just north is Otter Point State Recreation Site with a host of complex rocky features and wild colors.
Hidden or completely inaccessible beaches abound between there and Nesika, where the hues get poppin' again. Another few miles and you happen across the fairly unknown Sisters Rock State Park, with its huge cave-like features and blobs, and then you shortly run into the Prehistoric Gardens attraction that features – you guessed it – dinos.
From here several miles northward it's just cliffs and a handful of viewpoints, but you soon run into Humbug Mountain State Park and its soaring heights of 1700 feet.
Battle Rock - Julia Sumangi
Port Orford. A few hidden viewpoints and beaches later, you enter the area around this town, including Hubbard Creek Beach's vast sands and the iconic Battle Rock. Port Orford Heads State Park is a set of wonders that includes a variety of lookouts, great whale watching, and the fascinating manmade additions to Tichenor Cove.
Tseriadun State Recreation Site and its sandy coves along with the the third Agate Beach on the Oregon coast are at the town's northern edges, and then it's miles of soft stuff and the mysterious cliffs that hold Garrison Lake in place above the ocean just before Cape Blanco. The latter features an ancient lighthouse and more untamed beaches just north. Cape Blanco Light Fundraising for 'Dire' Need of Repairs
Soon you get to striking Floras Lake anda mile-long trail to mind-bending Blacklock Point, and you exit the Curry Coast and get into Coos County and teensy Langlois. Now you've entered cranberry bog territory.
Courtesy Manuela Durson - see Manuela Durson Fine Arts
Bandon. The beach accesses disappear for awhile until you're just south of town, leaving great remote hiking possibilities. Bandon is host to a wide variety of beach areas that are famous and sometimes hidden, includes the Devils Kitchen area, a major golf course, Face Rock, Wizards Hat and Howling Wolf rocks, and Coquille Point.
Hit the river for the captivating lighthouse and the vast expanse of Bullard's Beach. There's, of course, the uber-lovely boardwalk at Bandon, and the mountain trails behind the area are known for dirt biking thrills. Another Agate Beach is along the way as well as Seven Devils area and its hidden accesses. Wilds just south of Bandon
Courtesy Manuela Durson - see Manuela Durson Fine Arts
Coos Bay / Charleston / North Bend. Highway 101 has veered eastward for awhile, but get up to Coos Bay and you can doubleback down to Cape Arago's head-spinning sights (including a lighthouse that's cut off from the world), Shore Acres State Park's enormous wave action and Sunset Bay's weird rock formations. Charleston is a small haven of watery attractions and docks, while North Bend is the area's slightly inland, historic brother.
Beaches on the northern edge of the Coos Bay jetty boast some occasional unearthing of shipwrecks , and it's the start of those 40 miles of white-knuckled dune action and ethereal shapes. Coos Bay, Charleston, North Bend Complete Guide: Southern Oregon Coast Travel -- Also See Oregon's Adventure Coast
Oregon National Dunes Recreation Area. From Coos Bay through to Florence – some 40 miles – you've entered one of the most primitive lands in the western U.S., one so intense it even inspired Frank Herbert to write the Dune book series that eventually became movies. Access roads are often few and far between, leaving serene hiking opportunities and gobs of daring dune buggy fun 'n frolic.
It encompasses Winchester Bay with its famed Umpqua River Lighthouse, and nearby is the small town Americana of Reedsport.
The dunes end at Florence and this is the cutoff between south coast and north Oregon coast – or the central Oregon coast, depending on how you think of it.
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