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Oregon Eatery Profile: Grateful Bread Bakery, Pacific City

By Andre' Hagestedt

(Oregon Coast) - At the southern end of Tillamook County, Pacific City's Grateful Bread is a precious little commodity on Oregon's coast, full of numerous surprises. It's tucked away at one rather distant end of the small town, like a gourmet hotspot along some obscure backwater shore.

Within these lovely, pastel walls is a slightly hip vibe, yet upscale in a homey kind of way. The proliferation of fine baked products, often in a French vein, give it a European touch as well.

Those baked goods would begin my dining experience here, and started things off with a little heavenly bang. I ordered the Halibut Sandwich, under $10, and added the shrimp chowder for just a little more. Sitting at the table were packets of real butter - Tillamook-made, of course. I'd been craving a good baguette and butter - Euro-style - upon first sitting down and spotting them. Luckily, the meal came with French-style baguette slices and slices of another bread with a greenish tint (a spinach garlic), arriving with an Italian-style vinaigrette for dipping. That dip, according to Grateful Bread, features such secret ingredients as roasted garlic and balsamic vinegar.

I was indeed grateful for these breads. They both had a bold flavor. The robust sourdough, with little bits of basil embedded within, had a woodsy touch - a little like France meets the Northwest. I loaded up on bread, the dip and the butter. Once the chowder came, somewhere halfway through all this, I realized I was already getting stuffed.

The shrimp chowder was a sparkler itself: thick, hearty and yet with a smooth, restrained blend of tastes. The shrimp was almost only hinted at, yet potent enough for all its seafood glory to come sailing through your taste buds. The potatoes nearly seemed the most prominent element.

Then came the halibut sandwich itself - which is touted as caught locally by the city's Dory fishermen. You can taste that difference. This was breaded and lightly grilled to perfection: that ideal blend of light, flakiness where white, juicy meat lay inside a browned exterior. This delightful slab of fish was subtle, with a simple flavor that still manages to explode in your mouth.

Again, the home baked gourmet bread aesthetic entered the scene with the fluffy, freshly baked bun. This, too, was browned to a perfection and was a pleasure all its own. I found myself tearing off chunks and dipping it in the Italian dip. There was a sense of the truly natural in the breads here. Somehow you just feel you're eating something good for you.

Among the long list of great, gourmet burgers and sandwiches, there are fabulous breakfasts, and a variety of Italian, seafood and meat dinner entrees.

Inside their light, airy surroundings (that includes an enclosed deck), Grateful also provides some pizza ecstasy. It's a limited menu, but an exquisite one, with a different touch. Their Veggie Special includes a bevy of Mother Earth's bounty. There's a Greek pizza with spinach, olives and feta cheese. The Hawaiian (Canadian bacon and pineapple) is the only meat-eaters' item. Or for $16.95, you can build your own from a variety of meats and veggies. 34805 Brooten Road, Pacific City. (503) 965-7337.

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