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Oregon
Culinary Tourism: Mad Chef of Coastal Town Gains Cult Following
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One creation up close |
(Wheeler, on
the Oregon Coast) – The Nehalem
Bay, on Oregon’s north coast, is known for its characters.
Among a few (but growing) number of devotees, it’s also known
as a place with a myriad of secrets and pleasant surprises.
Guido’s
Ristorante, in the six-block-long burgh of Wheeler, is exactly
one of those kinds of funky surprises, containing a character of
a pizza chef whose regular customers love his mad experiments with
pizza toppings. Manager Phil Kaufman has a devoted fan club of folks
who come in just to have him “surprise them” with whatever
pizza toppings he feels inspired to toy with.
Inventing wild
pizza and pizza-like creations has already become a tradition at
Guido’s, which opened in January of this year. They call it
“Designer Pizzas.”
It started off
with just one group of three, who somehow nicknamed themselves the
“three guinea pigs.” They told Kaufman a certain budget,
and other than that, simply put whatever he wanted on the pizzas.
The result has been a flurry of mix ‘n’ match creations
by Kaufman, who now has four or five groups come in just to have
him experiment on them.
“I know
that I’ll be doing this almost every night now,” said
Kaufman. “It’s genuinely a lot of fun.”
Concoctions
have included items like montrachet cheese with spinach and shrimp
over a pesto base, or roasted garlic, lamb, pine nuts, proscuitto,
feta cheese and various kinds of Italian sausage. Kaufman creates
vast, mountainous gourmet pizzas, crammed with a variety of high-end
toppings.
“There’s
often like eight to ten toppings,” Kaufman said. “I’d
say 40 percent of it is specialty meats, three or four cheeses and
roasted vegetables. I look forward to this. It’s like having
a blank easel.”
The former New
Yorker goes shopping daily to find fresh, out of the ordinary ingredients.
“If I was back there, I’d be hitting the street markets
every day, looking for fresh stuff,” Kaufman said. “I
get a little of something new each day, knowing I’ll be doing
at least one of these. But I don’t need to get too much, so
it won’t turn bad on me.”
He’s also
experimented with topping pizzas with asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower,
and then there’s that one with roast beef and sauerkraut,
with a fresh horseradish base that was pureed that night.
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Meatball "casserole" before
and after |
Another recent
wonder included broccoli, montrachet cheese, shrimp, and large mushrooms
stuffed with crab, among other things. A pizza with meatballs has
also been a favorite.
And it’s
all by request of the customers, who keep growing in numbers because
of word of mouth. The first group told someone else, and they came
in and told others, and so on.
“They
usually come in later, around 8:30, because they know I won’t
be too busy,” Kaufman said. “I now have just a couple
of questions: what’s your budget, is there anything you don’t
want on it, and do you want it heavy or light? Because some may
want it more on the vegetarian side – more light – or
with a lot of heavy meats.”
Pizzas aren’t
the only things he experiments with either. One customer wanted
a meatball sandwich – which is actually on the menu. But Guido’s
was out of bread, so he created an unusual meatball casserole, with
several meatballs baked beneath layers of different cheeses, a marinara
sauce and veggies. The result was several orders that night for
this impromptu dish, after others saw what Kaufman had created.
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Kaufman
entertains at Guido's |
More experimentations
are coming - including some surprises for Cinco de Mayo - and Kaufman
expects this “designer pizza” to grow even more among
the locals. This is, after all, a place that is known for its uniqueness
already; where Kaufman and the staff banter, joke and entertain
like the ensemble cast of "Seinfeld." Area residents and
regulars already know this about Guido's.
He sits for
a moment and ponders the limits of this experimentation. Then, in
his true comedic manner, he quips: “I haven’t tried
liver yet.”
675 Hwy 101,
Wheeler. (503) 368-7778.
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