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Cunning Culinary Feats Found on North Oregon Coast

By Andre’ Hagestedt

Nehalem River Inn

(Manzanita, Oregon) – While it’s not nearly as populated as the central Oregon coast, the north coast seems to pull the most dining rabbits out of the hat and provide some the majority of the coast’s most memorable eateries. Sometimes, you have to look a little harder for some of them, as a few of the best are lurking in little corners, or in coastal towns that are slightly hidden themselves.

Seaside has a few jewels just under the surface, including Taste of Tuscany, Phannie Phat’s and the eye roll-inducing gourmet ice cream of Zinger’s Homemade Ice Cream. In Cannon Beach, Fultano’s Pizza cloisters some of the finest pasta on the entire coastline; while the Warren House, known a bit more for its nightlife, provides fantastic gourmet delights as well.

In smaller places like Manzanita, Left Coast Siesta cooks up a storm with its nouveau fast food Mexican that must be tasted to be experienced. Off-the-beaten-path Nehalem hides Wanda’s Café and its wild culinary forays, as well as the Nehalem River Inn’s dazzling upscale presentation and expertise.

Then there’s Wheeler, just south of Nehalem, which, well, you’ll see.

Terra Cotta Cafe

Terra Cotta Café, Manzanita

At this gem in the tiny town of Manzanita, owners Harvey and Sandy have brought a bit of heaven to this already dreamy burgh. The interior is done ib pastel pinks and given a romantic, intimate vibe that is upscale yet beach flip-flop friendly.

Next door, the pair ran The Malt Shop for years until recently. This was also famous for exquisite burgers and lots of other pleasures: simple Americana dishes done with mouth-watering flair. They dropped that business earlier this year, understandably, because it caused them to work nearly 20-hour days when paired with the evening hours of the Terra Cotta.

It all begins with the breadsticks. They are unique: not hardened, upright oblong chunks of bread, but rather, limp, braided creations that sing upon impact with your mouth. They are moist, tender and full of life.

I suck them down like there’s no tomorrow (because, according to the melee of my growling, starving stomach, there isn’t another day). Another set of them comes just as my soup does, and I get halfway into this grouping as well, voraciously nibbling on these after dousing them with the real (oh yum) butter.

New York Steak at Terra Cotta

Next up comes a soft, silky bisque made of artichokes and tomatoes. This is a personal recipe of Sandy’s, and it’s wowing to say the least. The whole thing goes down smooth and creamy, but there’s a touch of a zing, given by the artichokes, yet subtle and far from overpowering.

Then comes the New York steak – which I must say may be the best specimen of steak I’ve ever come across. It’s a perfect blend of charred layers on the outside and rich, juicy meat on the inside.

This whole experience set me back about $18.

The menu consists of a few pasta specialties, many kinds of seafood, and meat and chicken dishes – all with an innovative flair that would make these plates at home on some cable TV foodie show. Prices generally range from $17 to $25. Manzanita. (503) 368-3700.

Inside The Bistro

The Bistro, Cannon Beach

It’s hard to beat this legend on the north Oregon coast for consistency and sheer pleasure, with a fierce following that is so devoted it’s almost like a cult. Eat here once and you’ll be converted too.

From the outside, it appears to be a hole in the wall: the title “Bistro” furthers that impression. Inside – just like that Dr. Who character’s time-tripping spacecraft – it’s a lot bigger than it looks. But the food here, as well as the drink mixology, seem to defy the laws of physics.

The bar sits at the very front, in a tiny room that contains three tables and about six or so places at the bar. Behind that structure, their booze-craft enters brave new territory with loads of inventive drinks. All sorts of wild, brilliant colors show up in ingenious martinis, or you’ll see them putting together some wacky concoction using fire and sparks – as if some ancient knowledge of wizardry has been passed down to this generation of bartenders.

Linguini and meatballs

Next to the front room, another much larger space opens up, with high, vaulted ceilings and a feel not unlike some backwoodsy French eatery in a forest.

Their meals often start off with this stunning Greek Lemon soup that is sleek and silky smooth. The orzo rice are tender and delicate, but there’s a bit of tang to this glorious creation. It is warming but light, a perfect segue into the heartier territory to come.

Their breads are magnificent, reminding me again of something you’d find in an old country inn in rural France. They are rustic and woodsy; a bit of white, sourdough heaven.

There is a wonderful spaghetti and meatballs that is offered, but not usually on the menu. It’s like a secret you have to know about: apparently reward for being part of this cult of fans. In this case, no actual spaghetti noodles were on hand, but instead linguini, which was just as fine and just as outstanding.

Outstanding mixology at The Bistro

The sauce is this thick, bold and flavorful thing, yet still delicate. Big, fat mushrooms add an earthy touch, while green peppers bring an occasional zing. The whole thing is rich and hearty and feels like a garden is unfolding over my palate.

The meatballs are gargantuan: a bold blend of spices and almost tangy. I’m a sucker for great meatballs and relish every mouthful.

At one point, I realize the only thing this is missing is more sauce. For some reason, my dish was a bit low. Just as I was thinking this, the wise and observant waitress asked me if I’d like some more sauce. Just in time.

Their famously imaginative menu includes a bundle of interesting entrees and flavors, with influences from all over Europe and the Mediterranean. There are pansotti (swiss chard and cheese-filled triangles with walnut pesto and marinara sauce), sautéed oysters served in a lemon sauce, broiled chicken with a Thai slant, a famous seafood stew with fish changing regularly, and a broiled lamb with an eggplant relish I heard someone cooing about all night. Items range from $15 to $25. 263 N. Hemlock. Cannon Beach, Oregon. 503-436-2661.

Guido’s Ristorante, Wheeler

View from Guido's

Overlooking the Nehalem Bay, tiny, six-block-long Wheeler has a lion’s share of great restaurants: there are three packed into this miniscule but addictive place. There’s the growing buzz of the Sea Shack, the legendary experimentations of the Treasure Café, and then there’s Guido’s.

This charming eatery was once home to the famous Nina’s Italian eatery, which wowed the north coast for a couple of decades until its demise two years ago. Then, the first version of Guido’s entered the building, with some truly amazing pizza creations that were out of this world.

Now, the newest version may not have that cutting edge gourmet vibe, but it’s still a wonderful inheritor of the legacy of Italian food joints in this spot – and it has its own exceptional slant on the genre.

Exquisitely retro lounge in the back of Guido's

Their pastas and pizzas are becoming well known for being simply good quality family fare with a homemade feel. First, you’re greeted with a lovely little collection of antipasto: good cheeses and meats, along with fresh vegetables.

Their minestrone soup is fabulous, and introduces you to the made-with-loving-care sense you get from all the meals here. It’s a soup like your grandma would’ve made – if she was a really good cook. Lots of spinach adds a nice touch.

Their garlic bread is tasty in this Old World kind of way, again like a sweet relative made it from scratch.

I’ve become addicted to the calzone ($11.95), which is somewhere between pasta and a pizza, and probably shows off what their capable of in both worlds. The meat sauce covering this golden, glazed beauty of a crescent is hearty, thick and rich with meat and flavors. The crust is juicy and moist, adding much to the total of the layered flavors.

The whole dish is presented nicely, with cantaloupe and grapes.

Inside the calzone, it’s packed with a potpourri of stuff. Beef, sausage, mushrooms, olives and gobs of cheese form a nice rush of tastes from this gleefully varied, inverted pizza.

The view here is addictive. It’s hard to not stare out at the bay and Neahkahnie Mountain and become almost hypnotized. It’s likely the most beautiful dining view on the coast that isn’t of the surf. 675 Hwy 101, Wheeler. (503) 368-7778.

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