Secrets of the Season

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Huge Wave Surges on Oregon Coast - Secrets to Watching Them

Storm surge in Manzanita, proving it's not always a safe place to watch storms

(Oregon Coast) – Saturday will bring extraordinary wave drama to the Oregon coast, as storm conditions are expected to coincide with a high tide, creating waves around 30 feet in height. Because of this, the National Weather Service has issued a high surf warning for the north and central coast of Oregon, in effect from Friday night through 2 p.m. on Saturday.

Look for monster waves to come barreling in at your favorite beach spot, creating some irresistible photographic moments, especially in rocky areas where the tide reaches some resistance rather quickly. But it also means extreme danger in some beaches, and you’ll have to watch it all from some safe vantage point. Many beaches will simply be off limits.

But, thanks to one coastal geologist, there are ways to guard yourself better against sneaker waves – especially if you hit the beaches on Sunday, after the storm, when beachcombing will be prime.

Waves will knock around big, dangerous stuff, like this spot in Rockaway

The NWS said swells along the coast have continued to build all day, and will continue to do so through Saturday. As of 11 a.m., one of their buoys off Tillamook reported seas of 19 feet. Astoria bar pilots noticed seas near 20 feet near the Columbia River Bar entrance.

By Friday night, a secondary surge of wind will pushing seas up to around the 30-foot level, making for serious surges. Seas will then drop below 20 feet later on Saturday night.

The NWS warned against deadly rip currents and large waves on the beaches.

Tom Horning, a geologist living in Seaside, said these surges will threaten those who stray to close to the ocean. Horning pointed to a rather significant event in 1999 that has similarities to this one.

Yachats and its rocky ledges up against the tide will be a bad place to be, unless you stay above these beaches

“There were expected tides and historically high waves from March 2 to 3, 1999, when historically unprecedented beach erosion took place along the coasts of Oregon and Washington,” Horning said. “The peak of the waves coincided perfectly with the high tide of that night, and this magnified the storm surge to near-catastrophic proportions.”

Horning said sneaker waves are a likelihood on Saturday, so stay clear of low-lying beaches or rocky ledges.

“Sneaker waves sneak up on you and can carry away the unprepared,” Horning said. “Sneaker waves are formed by at least two wave trains that are moving at slightly different speeds and that are out of phase. As a result, they produce a complex wave train that can double the heights of the waves every few minutes, with smaller waves happening in between.”

Cape Meares will be an excellent place to view gigantic waves

What’s surprising is that there are conditions to look out for when a sneaker wave may be coming, but you have to be paying close attention to the tide.

“The clue that a sneaker wave is coming is a large withdrawal of the ocean after a period of smaller waves,” Horning said. “The withdrawal represents a magnified trough preceding a magnified peak - a big wave - that is following. If the ocean pulls out an abnormal distance, keep an eye on it and plan your escape route - if you are in an area that can be flooded by the coming big surge.”

Horning said it’s best to watch the ocean for 10 to 20 minutes to get an idea of whether or not sneaker waves are likely. But if in doubt, simply stay away from the beach – period. If you see waves reaching up close to cliffs or foredunes, stay off it and watch the beach from above.

Loads of unique objects will be found on the beaches after these storms

“Another trick to estimating if a site is safe is to stay on dry ground, as that site should not get swamped by waves,” Horning said. “But this only works if the weather is dry. If it has been raining, you have to study the site to see if it has foam or bits of debris from waves. You should also keep in mind when the tide will peak. A site can be dry early in the tidal cycle, but can be hit by waves as the tide rises. Caution and a close eye on the ocean is needed.

“Foolishness has killed not only the fools, but those who try to rescue them.”

Low-lying sandy beaches with easy access to higher ground and no steep cliffs that can trap may be OK for watching the waves, especially if they are broad and there’s a good distance between you and the tide line. A good example may be some beaches of Lincoln City, Seaside, Manzanita, Waldport and Florence. Although Seaside’s southern cove area is usually a no-no in such conditions, as storm waves often reach high enough to wallop the parking lot. Manzanita can be iffy as well.

Newport's Nye Beach has considerable dangers during such surge conditions, but you'll be fine if you stay above it all

The main entrance to Neskowin’s beach will probably be a good place to watch, as long as the creek isn’t too flooded. But stay away from Proposal Rock.

Some parts of Lincoln City and Gleneden Beach are bad and good for this, depending on the beaches. Wider ones like D River Wayside are good, as are the broader parts of the Nelscott district or wider sections of Gleneden Beach where a large rise in the sand often makes a bit of a barrier for the sea.

Ironically, the most dangerous beaches for storm watching are the safest and best views if you stay above them. Spots like Oceanside, Newport’s Nye Beach, Agate Beach, the community of Cape Meares (Tillamook Bay spit), Arch Cape, Cannon Beach are real killers in conditions like this. But if you stay above, you’re in for the show of your life.

Oceanside will be a dangerous beach to play on, but will make for spectacular sights if you stay above it

The same goes for rocky ledge beaches, like those typical of Yachats, the pocket beaches south of there, and Depoe Bay. Yachats has many areas to watch the melee from above, as in the state park or the streets that pass next to them.

Spectacular places to look for monster waves include Oceanside, the overlook above Short Sand Beach near Manzanita and Cape Meares, to name a few.

Many coastal locals are beginning to look at this storm with giddy anticipation, especially afterwards, when erosion and beachcombing will provide some new insights to the world around us.

Newport beach expert Guy DiTorrice has been talking about changes to that area’s beaches, said Starfish Point manager Danielle Emerick.

“We are expecting very high tides and Guy said that the sand is shifting, exposing lots of agates and fossils,” Emerick said. “I know the sand is moving here. I see a few more rocks poking out of the sand.”

Recent storms have dumped a variety of strange objects onto the coast, such as a rare sea turtle in Gearhart and a sperm whale at Cannon Beach. A man was caught allegedly stealing teeth from that whale recently.

Inn at Cannon Beach. Beautifully wooded natural setting at quiet south end of Cannon Beach. Great during winter storms with a new book by the fireplace – or when the sun is out for family fun and beach strolling. Handsome beach cottage-style architecture. Lush flowering gardens and naturalized courtyard pond. Warm, inviting guest rooms. Continental buffet breakfast. Warm Cookies. Family and Pet Friendly. Welcome gifts. Smoke-free. Complimentary Wireless Connectivity. Wine and book signing events. 800-321-6304 or 503-436-9085. Hemlock At Surfcrest, Cannon Beach, Oregon. www.atcannonbeach.com.

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